Since woven lining fabric is thin and soft, it tends to stretch more in a bias direction. When the length is long and flare is wide, the bias part of lining will stretch by it own weight, and the lining may stick out from the outer fabric. Below are few remarks.

1. Make the design simple as possible.
2. Make the gathers and flares small, and make slits in armpit part to make it easy to move.
3. In case of flare skirts, make the bias angle of each part small.
4. Comparing with synthetic yarn, edge easing is effective. The amount is best at 1-2%.
5. A margin to sew up should be more than 12mm.
6. Make fullness in the side and center of the back.

The most important thing in spreading, pattern layout, and cutting the fabric is to cut the parts correctly so as not to cause any trouble afterwards. Below are few remarks:

1. Spread the fabric so as not to make wrinkles, and put it so that warp and weft looks straight. If pattern is laid and the fabric cut when the warp and weft is curved, the cut parts will change shapes.
2. If using the rotating type fabric spreading platform, pin the fabric with small enough interval so the fabric wouldn't become wavy.
3. Generally, lining fabric is slippery, and easy to slip while cutting. So
a) Lessen the number of layering fabrics
b) Use enough clips, weights, and pins.
c) Put thin paper in between few layers of fabric.
4. The cutting edge should be always sharp. Also cutting in low tpm is preferred.
5. Make the notch mark as shallow as possible.

Since Cupro lining is thin and soft, problems like seam puckering and warp tight yarn may occur. It is one characteristic of Cupro that not so serious seam puckering can be easily repaired with ironing, but the countermeasure should be made during the sewing. It is also important to prevent frays and poor seams.

Preventing seam puckering warp tight yarn
Below are the sewing machine conditions:

Sewing speed	2500-4000rpm.
Needle size	Organ needle #9-#11 KN, SF, NS, J, S point needle.
Sewing yarn	#50(235Dtex)~#60(167Dtex).
Pressure foot & pressure	Teflon treated, Nasiji treated well sliding one. Pressure should be low as long as fabric can be sent properly. (2-3kg).
Feed dog	4 fine feed dog type. Height 0.6-0.9mm is preferred.
Needle plate's needle eye diameter	Shouldn't be too big than the needle itself. For example, if the needle is #11, the hole should be 1.4-1.6mm in diameter.
Needle moving count	More than 5 needles/cm.
Sewing yarn tension	Weak as possible (as long as the seam won't change).The bobbin thread tension should be 8-10g, and balance with upper and lower sewing yarn.
Hand operation	Hand feed

Preventing frays
When frays may occur, prevent it by the following countermeasures:
1. There are few ways for seam allowance, so it should be chosen from the design. Usually it is over locking and hemstitched.

	Open Seam	Double Welt Seam
edge over locking
triple-folding

2. When lock stitching, back stitch more than 5 stitches. If the sewing yarn breaks, superimposed seam more than 5cm, and also back stitch.
3. Inner stitch and binding stitch should be done well.
4. Slits should be done as below:

One of the characteristics of Cupro lining is the effectiveness of ironing and pressing.
It is better to use steam iron rather than dry heating iron. Steam conducts heat better, and also the steam enables the fiber itself to set better. After ironing and pressing, it is important to take the heat and moisture off the fabric with vacuum.
By contrast, if the ironing or pressing time, temperature, pressure etc. is incorrect, flaws like friction marks, wrinkles, and press kinks will occur.
Below are some remarks:

Rreference of ironing
temperature: 130-150 C
pressure: only the weight of the iron itself (about 15-20g/cm^2)
time: 4-6 seconds
steam: little
vacuuming time: 5-10 seconds
put cloth between fabric and iron: prevents friction and pressing marks

Reference of pressing
temperature: 130-150C
pressure: 250-300g/cm^2
time: 4-6 seconds
steam little, vacuuming time: 5-10 second

1. Seam Puckering (slips and crinkles on the seam)

Reason	Countermeasure
Sewing yarn selection was improper	Check the yarn denier, elongation, shrinkage.
Sewing needle was improper	Use finer needle
Sewing machine was improper	Use needle feeding, upper and under feeding, puller feed sewing machines.
Sewing machine conditions was improper	Lower the machine speed.Lessen the fabric holder's pressure, and make the fabric easier to slide.Lower the feed dog's height and lessen the number.Make the needle plate's needle eye diameter smaller.Lower the tension of sweing yarn.
Layering the fabric was improper	Change the way to layer the fabric(usually slippery fabric goes on top).

2. Tight Yarn

Reason	Countermeasure
Marking be drilling	Choose a drill and polish the tip. Lower the tpm of the drill
The needle was improper	Choose the correct needle
The sewing machine conditions was improper	Lower the speed of machineChoose a smaller needle eye diameter.

3. Needle holes (holes made by re-sewn or tacking that are noticeable)

Reason	Countermeasure
Sweing needle was improper	Check the needle (use finer needle. Watch for cracks on the tip).
Tacking yarn was improper	Adjust the tacking yarn's binding part to come out of the fabric.
Taking out the tacking yarn was improper	Take out the tacking yarn slowly.Make corrections (brush, iron press, rub)
The length of outer and lining fabric is different	Make the reserved part of lining fabric larger.
When the lining stretches by its own weight	Make the pattern considering the stretch
The lining and outer fabric wasn't closed properly	Be careful of the position of sewing.

4. Water spots, ring stains

Reason	Countermeasure
Press machine, iron drains	Check out the machine itself.Use water that has nothing mixed (such as distilled water)
Marks after removing stains	If stain occur: 1. Shade off around the stain with moistened cotton cloth, and immediately dry with dry iron. 2. When using spray guns, shade off the stain in circle.

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